June 18, 2010

Syrian Ghosts on the Banks of the Banias

Now that my time in Israel is coming to an unfortunate end, and Italy is slowly creeping over the horizon, I figured I should return to the north to get my fill of its beautiful, mountainous terrain before it's too late.

Yesterday afternoon Ronen & I drove up north in his father's car with two friends of his from the kibbutz: Lahav-who everyone calls Agamon, and Yossi. It takes about three hours to drive from Tel Aviv to kibbutz Dafna, four if there's traffic (which there was). But the farther you get up north the more scenic the drive is, and the time just seemed to fly by as I gazed into the incredibly vast green and gold mountains of the Golan Heights. However, the combination of four hours in a car and the blistering heat can take a lot out of you, and despite the plans we made to go to a concert at a nearby kibbutz that night, we chose to go home to watch a few episodes of It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia and pass out instead.

After grabbing a quick breakfast this morning, Ariel and Agamon came and picked us up to go to the Banias River for a swim. The Banias is one of the three main rivers located in the north, all leading to the Jordan River. They are the main source for water in northern Israel and are all unbelievably refreshing to swim in during the hot summer. So we parked the car and hiked about a mile down the thin make-shift walking trail until we could hear the subtle rapids of the Banias River flowing just below us. By the time we arrived we were all sweating buckets, and it took us about ten seconds to strip down and hop right in to the icy water. Since the river is located at the foot of Mt. Hermon, the highest mountain in Israel, the water flows from the melted ice caps at the very top-making the water shockingly cold. Still, on a day like today, I wouldn't want it any warmer! The water felt amazing, and we spent a good part of the afternoon sitting on the jagged rocks and letting the water rush over us, ignoring the fact that I couldn't really feel my legs.

But it wasn't just the beauty of the river that day that caught my eye. Our particular swimming spot on the Banias River has a little bit of history laying right beside the water.

Take yourself back to the six day war in June of 1967, when the Syria/Israeli border lay just above the Banias River. Two (presumably) young Syrian soldiers were driving down a road in a tank about 100ft above the river, and for one reason or another, drove the tank off the cliff and met there bitter end right beside the beautiful oasis of the Banias. Forty-three years later, The tank is still here, and has become a popular tourist spot in recent years. Standing on the tank and looking up to the left and right of me, it's extremely intriguing to think about what caused such a tragic accident.
It could have been a number of good reasons and bad ones. But either way, here it lies, motionless and eerie, a symbolic oxymoron to the peace and serenity of the natural world. I'm happy I got to see this place before I left Israel. It's like a tiny precursor to the thought-provoking and extensive history I will be a witness to during my two-month trek around Europe.

After letting the sun dry our skin while enjoying some fresh honeydew melon beside the water, it was finally time to end our day and head back to the car. It was a wonderful way to spend my last day in the north, and I know one day in the future I will return-hopefully sooner rather than later!

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